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phdezra
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@Fish64 That's a great find—congrats on the 1947 Sterling! A sturdy postwar machine, but you're right: "seems to be all there but needs work" is really shorthand for a million little questions.
First things first: when someone says "needs work," the devil's in the details. Is the carriage not advancing? Are the typebars sluggish or sticking halfway up? Is the ribbon advancing, or sitting frozen on one side? Even simple things—like a hardened platen or gummy key levers—can make the whole machine feel seized.
The Sterling of that era has a fairly forgiving segment and basket design, but after 75+ years you'll often find dried grease on the typebar pivots, uneven tension on the mainspring, or a carriage drawband that's seen better days. Check if the carriage return feels smooth and whether the escapement is catching reliably—those are usually your first "tells."
Keys sticking? Could be grime in the segment slots. Carriage not moving? Maybe the drawband is slack or off the drum. Shift feels heavy? Old felt bushings or alignment drift. And then there's the universal culprit: decades of dust packed into every crevice like it's been saving it for you.
The good news is that Sterlings were built to be worked on—plenty of clearance under the hood, and most parts are accessible without advanced contortions. A bit of mineral spirits on the segment, patience with the ribbon vibrator, and a light re-tensioning of the mainspring can bring one of these back to life.
Think of it less as "one project" and more like a series of little puzzles: each thing that doesn't move tells you a story about what dried up, wore down, or went missing. That's half the fun. And trust me, you'll learn more from this one Sterling than from a dozen shiny shelf queens.
So yes—welcome to the rabbit hole.
Post what isn't moving, and you'll find a small army of us here ready to point at springs, levers, and screws you never knew existed.Ezra
Thank Ezra! The first issue is the carriage wont move on its own, just sits there if you try and type. But moves freely if you move by hand.
I found that the line that connected it to the return spring had broken , I temporarily have it “fixed” with a piece of fishing line and the carriage works now. It types! And I felt so proud of myself! lol but the original is way heavier then what I used so I don’t expect it to be a permanent repair, does anyone know if this part is available some where or even what the proper replacement is?? The original is 40 thousandths in diameter and has a metal hook on one end.
The keys seem to not be sticky but I want to give it a good cleaning …. A full maintenance but am not sure how to proceed. Looking for direction.
I picked this up in the case for 20.00 knowing about the carriage issues, and hoping to be able to get it working again.
Thanks
Bill
I found that the line that connected it to the return spring had broken , I temporarily have it “fixed” with a piece of fishing line and the carriage works now. It types! And I felt so proud of myself! lol but the original is way heavier then what I used so I don’t expect it to be a permanent repair, does anyone know if this part is available some where or even what the proper replacement is?? The original is 40 thousandths in diameter and has a metal hook on one end.
The keys seem to not be sticky but I want to give it a good cleaning …. A full maintenance but am not sure how to proceed. Looking for direction.
I picked this up in the case for 20.00 knowing about the carriage issues, and hoping to be able to get it working again.
Thanks
Bill
phdezra
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@Fish64 Bill, that's fantastic progress—and for twenty bucks, you've already gotten your money's worth in satisfaction. The fact that you diagnosed the broken drawband and jury-rigged a fix with fishing line puts you miles ahead of where most of us started. (Many a Sterling has been brought back to life with less dignified materials—shoelaces, dental floss… I even saw someone use a guitar string once. Yours is downright classy in comparison!)
The "line" you're dealing with is the drawband. On these Smith-Coronas it's normally a braided cord or wire of just the right weight and tension, with a small metal clip or hook at the carriage end. That 0.040" thickness you measured sounds right. The fishing line will prove your point, but it'll stretch over time and slip on the drum. The proper replacement is a drawband cord—waxed braided nylon or Dacron is common now. Some folks cut their own from blind cord or old sewing machine belts; others order pre-made replacements from parts suppliers or typewriter shops. The hook you can usually re-use, or bend a new one from piano wire. The key is to get the cord length and tension right: too tight, the carriage will slam; too loose, it won't advance consistently.
As for the rest of the machine: if the keys are moving freely, you're in good shape. A "full cleaning" usually means clearing the segment slots (a little mineral spirits on a brush, or dental floss with a rag strip to wick out old grease), checking the typebar pivots, and wiping down the rails where the carriage rides. Resist the urge to drown the poor thing in WD-40—it gums up worse than what you're trying to fix. Light oil (synthetic or sewing machine) only at true pivot points, and even then sparingly.
You've already taken the hardest first step: you got it typing again. Now it's just a matter of making the repair permanent, cleaning out 75 years of dried ink and dust, and fine-tuning. Think of it like bringing an old violin back into tune—it's still capable of beautiful music, it just needs a little coaxing.
And honestly, that feeling of pride you had when it typed for the first time? That's why so many of us keep coming back to these machines. Welcome to the club—you've just had your first Sterling moment!
Ezra
Ezra, thanks! Can you recommend a supplier for a draw band for this machine? I’d like to get the correct part.
As for cleaning can I use denatured alcohol? (I have that on hand) and a tooth brush? What about oil??
I know so many questions
Thanks for your replies
Bill
As for cleaning can I use denatured alcohol? (I have that on hand) and a tooth brush? What about oil??
I know so many questions
Thanks for your replies
Bill
phdezra
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@Fish64 Bill, you're asking all the right questions—that's exactly how we all learned.
For the drawband: you won't usually find it listed as "Smith-Corona Sterling drawband," but several suppliers stock proper replacements. Jay Respler (mytypewriter.com) often carries them, and The Type Space or Brumfield's sometimes have pre-cut cords with the hook. Failing that, waxed braided nylon cord (about 0.040") from a sewing or marine supply shop works beautifully—you just cut to length and reuse the original hook. Some repair folks swear by blind cord or Dacron fishing leader, but if you want the "real feel," the pre-made typewriter bands are the easiest route.
On cleaning: denatured alcohol (though I swear by “Rubber Rejuvenator “ from Amazon) is fine in moderation—it cuts dried ink and grease, but it evaporates fast and can strip lacquer if you soak. The toothbrush idea works, though I usually keep a cheap stiff artist's brush or even pipe cleaners handy to work inside the segment slots. The big thing is: less flooding, more patience. Work a little at a time, and always let the solvent wick out instead of pooling.
Oil: use it sparingly, and only on true metal-to-metal pivot points. A modern synthetic machine oil (sewing machine oil, Tri-Flow without Teflon, Zoom Spout) is the go-to. Avoid WD-40 or 3-in-1—they'll gum up over time. One drop is usually plenty; more just invites dust to move in.
You're already on the right track, and the fact that you've got it typing again means the Sterling itself wants to cooperate. Take your time, don't over-oil, and you'll have it humming along. Before long you'll be the one answering these "million questions" for the next new owner who wanders in here.
Ezra
For the drawband: you won't usually find it listed as "Smith-Corona Sterling drawband," but several suppliers stock proper replacements. Jay Respler (mytypewriter.com) often carries them, and The Type Space or Brumfield's sometimes have pre-cut cords with the hook. Failing that, waxed braided nylon cord (about 0.040") from a sewing or marine supply shop works beautifully—you just cut to length and reuse the original hook. Some repair folks swear by blind cord or Dacron fishing leader, but if you want the "real feel," the pre-made typewriter bands are the easiest route.
On cleaning: denatured alcohol (though I swear by “Rubber Rejuvenator “ from Amazon) is fine in moderation—it cuts dried ink and grease, but it evaporates fast and can strip lacquer if you soak. The toothbrush idea works, though I usually keep a cheap stiff artist's brush or even pipe cleaners handy to work inside the segment slots. The big thing is: less flooding, more patience. Work a little at a time, and always let the solvent wick out instead of pooling.
Oil: use it sparingly, and only on true metal-to-metal pivot points. A modern synthetic machine oil (sewing machine oil, Tri-Flow without Teflon, Zoom Spout) is the go-to. Avoid WD-40 or 3-in-1—they'll gum up over time. One drop is usually plenty; more just invites dust to move in.
You're already on the right track, and the fact that you've got it typing again means the Sterling itself wants to cooperate. Take your time, don't over-oil, and you'll have it humming along. Before long you'll be the one answering these "million questions" for the next new owner who wanders in here.
Ezra
phdezra
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Well, .032 will work in a pinch (I think)—it's thinner than the original .040, so you may notice it rides a little lighter on the drum and can slip if the surface gets polished. The Sterling isn't overly fussy, though; as long as the cord is strong, doesn't stretch like a rubber band, and you've got the length/tension set right, it'll do the job.
Think of the .032 as the "diet version"—good enough to keep the carriage moving, but not quite the sturdy feel Smith-Corona intended. If you can eventually source something closer to .040 braided nylon or Dacron, I'd swap it in for peace of mind. But for now? No harm in trying the thinner cord. Worst case, you'll be restringing again after some miles of typing—something every one of us has had to do.
Practical tip: reuse that original little metal hook at the carriage end—it saves a lot of frustration. A simple clove hitch or fisherman's knot on the drum end will hold just fine, but make sure the cord lies flat and winds evenly. Too many wraps or a twisted start will make the carriage feel jerky.
And hey, compared to fishing line, .032 is already a major promotion.
Ezra
Think of the .032 as the "diet version"—good enough to keep the carriage moving, but not quite the sturdy feel Smith-Corona intended. If you can eventually source something closer to .040 braided nylon or Dacron, I'd swap it in for peace of mind. But for now? No harm in trying the thinner cord. Worst case, you'll be restringing again after some miles of typing—something every one of us has had to do.
Practical tip: reuse that original little metal hook at the carriage end—it saves a lot of frustration. A simple clove hitch or fisherman's knot on the drum end will hold just fine, but make sure the cord lies flat and winds evenly. Too many wraps or a twisted start will make the carriage feel jerky.
And hey, compared to fishing line, .032 is already a major promotion.
Ezra
Thanks! Another question I have is how to properly set the tension and the length on the return spring. I really just “guessed”. I simply made the new “drawband” the same length as the broken original and went for it….. as I said it types ok, but not knowing how it’s suspose to feel I think it should have more tension on it. What I did was wind the drum/spring four or five times and hooked the fishing line in and ran it.
phdezra
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You did exactly what any of us would've done the first time—copy the old length and give the drum a few winds. That's half the battle won right there. The "proper" tension isn't so much an exact number of turns as it is a feel: the carriage should glide smoothly all the way across with steady pull, not sluggish at the far right and not snapping like a mousetrap when it returns.
On a Sterling, four or five winds is usually in the ballpark. If it feels a little lazy—say the carriage stalls near the right margin—add another half-turn. If it's slamming back like it's trying to leap off the desk, back it off. The sweet spot is when a light touch on the keys advances the carriage without hesitation, but you don't feel like you're wrestling it on a return stroke.
As for drawband length: close to the original is fine, but you want just enough slack that the carriage can travel all the way left without pulling the drum tight before its stop. Too long, and it may skip teeth; too short, and you're fighting constant over-tension. Think of it like tuning a guitar string: not "A-440 exact," but you know it when it sings right.
You've already got it typing—that's the hard part. Now it's just little nudges until the Sterling feels like it wants to run with you rather than against you. And don't worry, every one of us has done the same dance of "one turn more, one turn less" until it suddenly feels just right. That moment of Goldilocks balance is part of the fun.
Ezra
On a Sterling, four or five winds is usually in the ballpark. If it feels a little lazy—say the carriage stalls near the right margin—add another half-turn. If it's slamming back like it's trying to leap off the desk, back it off. The sweet spot is when a light touch on the keys advances the carriage without hesitation, but you don't feel like you're wrestling it on a return stroke.
As for drawband length: close to the original is fine, but you want just enough slack that the carriage can travel all the way left without pulling the drum tight before its stop. Too long, and it may skip teeth; too short, and you're fighting constant over-tension. Think of it like tuning a guitar string: not "A-440 exact," but you know it when it sings right.
You've already got it typing—that's the hard part. Now it's just little nudges until the Sterling feels like it wants to run with you rather than against you. And don't worry, every one of us has done the same dance of "one turn more, one turn less" until it suddenly feels just right. That moment of Goldilocks balance is part of the fun.
Ezra
Thanks, that’s helpful, what I did was I attached the drawband to the carriage with the carriage to the right, then I wound the spring 5 turns (much farther then that it felt like the spring slipped) and attached the other end to the drum and slowly let the band wind on the drum.
I think I found the cord to use for the draw and, it’s .039 with a breaking strength to 62 pounds! It’s waxed/braded nylon/polyester cord. Used in saddle making. I’m going to give that a try.
When I have some free time I’ll give it a cleaning and replace the drawband cord and see how it behaves.
Thanks for your help!
I think I found the cord to use for the draw and, it’s .039 with a breaking strength to 62 pounds! It’s waxed/braded nylon/polyester cord. Used in saddle making. I’m going to give that a try.
When I have some free time I’ll give it a cleaning and replace the drawband cord and see how it behaves.
Thanks for your help!
