Keys become stuck after cleaning but we’re working before

[Ltlittle]

I just recently got an Olympian sm3, it came in nice aesthetic condition and is very clean inside and out, however when I got it all of the keys were either very sluggish or stuck/would not return. I cleaned them thoroughly with 70% isopropyl alcohol (the highest percentage I had at the time, then used the machine normally. All of the keys became unstuck and free and the machine worked fine. Today I bought a bottle of 99% isopropyl alcohol hoping to give the machine a more thorough clean, afterwards the keys seemed quite smooth, however soon after, one by on the keys began to stick and not want to move, now I have been in a loop for hours, cleaning with alcohol, the keys freeing up for a few minutes, then one by one stopping. It’s driving me a bit insane, especially because practically the same thing happened to me working on my Hermes rocket though lesser in serverity. Please if you have any idea what I might do let me know. Thanks for your help.

 

[benny7]

Probably the alcohol might be affecting the lubricant or leaving residues that cause the keys to stick, wipe with a slightly damp cloth (water only) and let it dry fully, then see if the keys loosen up

 

[phdezra]

I just recently got an Olympian sm3, it came in nice aesthetic condition and is very clean inside and out, however when I got it all of the keys were either very sluggish or stuck/would not return. I cleaned them thoroughly with 70% isopropyl alcohol (the highest percentage I had at the time, then used the machine normally. All of the keys became unstuck and free and the machine worked fine. Today I bought a bottle of 99% isopropyl alcohol hoping to give the machine a more thorough clean, afterwards the keys seemed quite smooth, however soon after, one by on the keys began to stick and not want to move, now I have been in a loop for hours, cleaning with alcohol, the keys freeing up for a few minutes, then one by one stopping. It's driving me a bit insane, especially because practically the same thing happened to me working on my Hermes rocket though lesser in serverity. Please if you have any idea what I might do let me know. Thanks for your help.

@Ltlittle Sounds like you've been through the SM3 baptism by fire that so many of us know. What you're describing is classic "alcohol temporarily frees it, but as soon as it dries, everything gums back up." The issue is usually not surface dirt, IMHO but old oil and grease deep in the segment slots and pivot points that has turned into a sticky varnish over the decades. Alcohol will cut through it a bit — which is why it works for a few minutes — but it also leaves everything bone-dry, which can make the problem worse once things re-stick.

Here's what I'd try, step-by-step:

1. Flood the segment properly. Use your 99% IPA, but really flush each type bar joint (the slot where it pivots) so that you dissolve as much of the old gunk as possible. Work the keys while it's wet. Repeat a couple of times until you stop seeing brownish runoff.
2. Follow up with a tiny bit of lubricant. After everything is dry, apply a drop (literally a drop) of light machine oil or sewing machine oil to each pivot point with a needle oiler or toothpick. Wipe off any excess. The goal is not to "oil the machine," but just to give the clean metal a whisper of lubrication so it doesn't seize up again.
3. Don't forget the cross-rod. On the SM3, all the type bars ride on a common cross-rod. If that rod has dried grease, the bars will still feel sluggish. Some collectors will run a pipe cleaner dipped in solvent along that rod (carefully!) before applying a micro-film of oil.
4. Exercise patience. After all this, work every key repeatedly. It takes time for the fresh oil to migrate into the tight spaces. Sometimes it won't feel 100% perfect until you've typed a few full pages.

And if it makes you feel better — you're not alone. My first SM3 did the exact same thing to me. I thought I'd broken it until I learned that sluggish keys are basically a rite of passage for Olympia owners. Once you get it sorted, these machines run like a Swiss watch (well, a German one ) and will stay smooth for years. (I now prefer SM3 over SM4 improvements, v small anyway).

Good luck, and keep us posted — there's nothing more satisfying than hearing that first perfectly free and snappy SM3 clatter after a proper cleaning.

Ezra

 

[Leith Harbour]

@Ltlittle Sounds like you've been through the SM3 baptism by fire that so many of us know. What you're describing is classic "alcohol temporarily frees it, but as soon as it dries, everything gums back up." The issue is usually not surface dirt, IMHO but old oil and grease deep in the segment slots and pivot points that has turned into a sticky varnish over the decades. Alcohol will cut through it a bit — which is why it works for a few minutes — but it also leaves everything bone-dry, which can make the problem worse once things re-stick.

Here's what I'd try, step-by-step:

1. Flood the segment properly. Use your 99% IPA, but really flush each type bar joint (the slot where it pivots) so that you dissolve as much of the old gunk as possible. Work the keys while it's wet. Repeat a couple of times until you stop seeing brownish runoff.
2. Follow up with a tiny bit of lubricant. After everything is dry, apply a drop (literally a drop) of light machine oil or sewing machine oil to each pivot point with a needle oiler or toothpick. Wipe off any excess. The goal is not to "oil the machine," but just to give the clean metal a whisper of lubrication so it doesn't seize up again.
3. Don't forget the cross-rod. On the SM3, all the type bars ride on a common cross-rod. If that rod has dried grease, the bars will still feel sluggish. Some collectors will run a pipe cleaner dipped in solvent along that rod (carefully!) before applying a micro-film of oil.
4. Exercise patience. After all this, work every key repeatedly. It takes time for the fresh oil to migrate into the tight spaces. Sometimes it won't feel 100% perfect until you've typed a few full pages.

And if it makes you feel better — you're not alone. My first SM3 did the exact same thing to me. I thought I'd broken it until I learned that sluggish keys are basically a rite of passage for Olympia owners. Once you get it sorted, these machines run like a Swiss watch (well, a German one ) and will stay smooth for years. (I now prefer SM3 over SM4 improvements, v small anyway).

Good luck, and keep us posted — there's nothing more satisfying than hearing that first perfectly free and snappy SM3 clatter after a proper cleaning.

Ezra

So detailed as always @phdezra! Curious though, how do you know when you've flushed enough with alcohol before switching to oil? And for the cross-rod, is there a safe way to reach it without taking too much apart? I'm still learning and don't want to mess anything up.

 

[phdezra]

@Leith Harbour Great questions — and trust me, we've all over-flushed or under-flushed at some point. The rule of thumb I use: when you no longer see brownish or yellowish runoff coming out of the segment slots and the type bars are snapping back while still wet, you're probably there. If they still feel gummy even when soaked, give it one more round. After that, it's time for a tiny touch of oil.

For the cross-rod, you don't have to take the machine apart — a pipe cleaner or thin cotton swab dipped in alcohol, fed gently along the rod from the top, usually does the trick. I like to prop the type bars up with a pencil so I can sneak in there. Think "surgical precision," not "power-washer."

And don't stress — you're not going to ruin anything unless you go wild with force or drown the poor SM3 in WD-40. Slow, patient cycles of clean-type-clean are the magic. Once you get that first perfectly snappy carriage return after a few pages, you'll know you nailed it.

Ezra

 

[TYPEtyp3typE]

I just recently got an Olympian sm3, it came in nice aesthetic condition and is very clean inside and out, however when I got it all of the keys were either very sluggish or stuck/would not return. I cleaned them thoroughly with 70% isopropyl alcohol (the highest percentage I had at the time, then used the machine normally. All of the keys became unstuck and free and the machine worked fine. Today I bought a bottle of 99% isopropyl alcohol hoping to give the machine a more thorough clean, afterwards the keys seemed quite smooth, however soon after, one by on the keys began to stick and not want to move, now I have been in a loop for hours, cleaning with alcohol, the keys freeing up for a few minutes, then one by one stopping. It’s driving me a bit insane, especially because practically the same thing happened to me working on my Hermes rocket though lesser in serverity. Please if you have any idea what I might do let me know. Thanks for your help.

ezra is right, that's old, hardened petroleum grease that the 70% IPA was too weak to fully dissolve.
the 99% is better, but the ultimate fix for that decades old varnish is usually mineral spirits or naphtha (lighter fluid). They are solvents specifically designed to cut through that kind of dried oil without attacking the paint.
Flood it one more time with a stronger solvent (while wearing a mask and gloves!) and follow Ezra's advice about the tiny bit of oil